BELGRADE: Getting more fond of it each time. And that one place in it where everybody knows my name.

Belgrade.

Former capital of the former Yugoslavia.

Many of you have not even heard of Yugoslavia.
Great country it was.

When I was just a little girl I was told mesmerizing stories about Belgrade.

And I payed it a first visit in my student days.

Zagreb is very close to my hometown, just 2 hours drive over the highway so Belgrade somehow was always on the other side.

Due to the political circumstances, it all changed and now I visit Belgrade quite often for business or fun.

And just last year I have started a course at The Faculty of Pharmacy which means that I travel there every month for couple of days.

At first, when all this faculty thing started, I really hated traveling to Belgrade.

I have poor flight connections (planes fly every second day of the week).

Though the flight is quite cheap - you can sometimes find one way ticket for 20 EUR.

Meaning I have to catch a bus. Which is at least 6 hours drive.

Depending on the border crossing in Croatia and customs.

Dear God, we cross the border twice and you have to get out of the bus, go to the police officer in CRO and SER (twice) and with usually 40 people on the bus - that takes some serious time.

And if it is cold outside you freeze your ass.

But let's leave it all behind.

As I have said  already,

I will leave out politics from my posts and make this blog easy breezy collection of things and thoughts that colored my days.

Belgrade is now capital of Serbia.

Population: approx. 1.5 million.

Not to big but not to small.

This city has very rich cultural life.
And Serbs make great movies, you should now that.
Though dramas really take your breath away and get you thinking, I prefer comedies.
MARATONCI TRCE POCASNI KRUG.

 Or MRTAV LADAN.

And my favorite of all times is Čarlston za Ognjenku.
Ognjenka, such a funny name.
Translates to maiden made of fire.
If I was Indian - that would be my Indian name :).
Tears for sale is this movie's title in English.

This is the trailer with the english subtitle.

If you like Gabo's work, you will love this film.

Yes, you guessed it right - I REALLY am into cinematography.

And Belgrade offers you everything: cinemas, theaters, ballet, lots of concerts, art galleries.
The Nutcracker, which I manage to miss every year...

Beautiful parks.

Along with countless restaurants and cafes, 
Belgrade is a place to be for the village hipsters and VIP wannabes from the surrounding towns.

You have a great University there.

Traffic is quite hectic and connections are sometimes really bad.

Meaning that you do not have a perfectly functioning public transport like in some EU countries.

So, beware of this fact that if you do not want to take a taxi - you need to come in at least 20 mins earlier than planned to catch your bus/tram ride and be prepared that sometimes you will have to wait 40 mins for it.

Just put on some music and enjoy analyzing the people passing by.

The main corso in the city is Knez Mihajlova street.

Pedestrian zone with cafes, restaurants and different stores.

Place to go if you want to see someone or to be seen by someone.

Especially on sunny days over the weekend.

Whenever I have enough time I stroll around the small streets connected to Knez Mihajlova and I always end up at the the Kalemegdan fortress.

I will not be writing about the history of the fortress.

Google has wasp knowledge about it so google it people.

I managed to explore it all day one day.

Went to the military museum as well.

Such a massive collection of artifacts.

Not that I care about it.

It is the proof of the sad history of the Balkans.

The artifact I found rather funny was this little tank. 

Polish, if I recall well.

Reminded me of that TV show that I really was fond of quite some time ago.

Lieutenant Gruber and his little tank.

ALO ALO!

I loved that show.

French resistance, British police officer with silly accent, Gestapo, British pilots hiding  and then that dreadful Edith and her singing skills.

How everybody was crazy about Rene.

Helga, shouting at everyone.

My friends often told me I remind them of Helga when I start shouting.

Say WHAT !?!

I never shout. Not that I can recall ;).

Hehe.

Too bad they don't make TV shows like that one anymore.

If you are a tourist or you are on a business trip or you are visiting someone you know in Belgrade,

 you will pay a visit to Skadarlija.

It is a vintage street in the heart of the city.

Just follow the link above.

You will like it.

My name is Skadarlija...or Skadarska street, however you like it. 

I am no boulevard...or avenue...or highway. I am common steep curved alley in the middle of Belgrade. 

And that would be everything meaningful to be told about me if it wouldn't be for my bohemian history, my crumbling roofs, my shaking chairs...

—Zuko Džumhur

Here are couple of photos I have managed to take one Saturday while there was nobody there.

There are few really nice restaurants here.

The most famous one is of course Tri šešira  (The Three Hats).

Over the years, Tri šešira welcomed numerous famous guests such as guitarist Jimi Hendrix, politicians George H.W. Bush, Josip Broz Tito, King Juan Carlos I of Spain, Sandro Pertini,  chess player Anatoly Karpov.

And me and my friend recently.

We had a really nice and cozy dinner.

Food is good.

All the meet you can eat.

And salad portions are gigantic.

They have a band there, similar to mexican mariachi bends only they play serbo-hungariano-mellow southern music. 

Am not really sure how to describe it.

Apart that they are really funny.

Made my friend uncomfortable.

I have enjoyed that, hehe.

Musicians approach your table and they ask what would you like them to play.

And if you are a foreigner - they would start playing any random song from your country - or your national anthem.

Violins, guitars, mandolins...

And they keep on coming back at you.

Depending on how much money you give them,
 they stay or they leave.

So funny.

I always smile when I remember that night.

It reminded me of this movie.

:)

If you are new to the city and are looking for a nice place to stay, I highly recommend this sweet little hostel/hotel Home Sweet Home.

Very clean.

Quiet.

Big living room with fire place.

I stay there every time.

They usually give me the blue or purple room.
Because they treat me like a princess :).

They even let me decorate their huge christmas tree last Christmas and I could invite my friend for dinner.
That she brought.
Yes, lazy bastard I am.
She actually bought fast food - souvlaki at Solunac fast food.
First time I had souvlaki was in Moldova.
Hopefully next time I will have a genuine one in Athens later this year,

This is us chilling in the heart of the city :).

Three cousins are in charge of this place - Damir, Predrag and Nemanja.

Very hospitable guys with great smiles.

This place is just under the hotel Moskva, near everything.

10 mins walk to Knez Mihajlova Street, 15 mins walk to Slavija square, 12 mins walk to main bus/railway station.

And now they have a little studio to rent as well.

Guys are just amazing, though the fact that I am really likable character helps ;).

They said that they will put my photo in their family album.

It is because I am really fun to hang out with and I can't stand bullshit, hehe.
Am joking here people!

But do look how generous these guys are:

They will arrange to pick you up anywhere in the city, airport included.

Last time I was there I had checked out my room early the day before, but the day I was supposed to leave Belgrade it turned out that I was in the city at 13:00, it was cold and raining, I was really tired and my bus was leaving at 17:00!

'Kill me now', was my first thought.

I called Home Sweet Home - and they took me in.

Just like that.

Even though I left them.

They made me coffee.

Gave me warm slippers.

I remember I was sitting in the living room with this hairy Israeli guy, watching some nonsense on TV. He had a really quiet voice, and I thought 'I will fall asleep sitting.'

Predrag approached and said: 'Take a nap. I can tell you are tired. We will wake you up when it is time for your bus.'

'Come on, how can I fall asleep? I am not even a guest' was my first thought. 'This is really embarrassing. Let me help you with the dishes. Or I can fold sheets' I said.

'This woman is mad' Damir replied.

'Go to sleep!'

Israeli guy went to the kitchen and it became really quiet.

I drowsed of, Walter Mitty moment.

And fell asleep.

I heard someone's voice 'Time to get up sleepy head.'

Opened my eyes to realize that they had turned of the TV, closed all the shades, and covered me with two blankets.

Home Sweet home it is.

And that one place in Belgrade where everybody knows my name.

Like I was staying at Mum's, only without being criticized or offered all kinds of food because I look 'sick skinny' :).

To sum it all up:

Come to Belgrade with open mind and explore the city.

You will enjoy it.

And who knows, 

maybe you too start coming back every once in a while too.
Numerous reasons included.

Until then,

take care.

Me.